Fruita Area inside Capital Reef

As we traveled through Southern Utah on Scenic Byway 12 it became clear that this road had earned a spot on our Top 3 List (the other 2 would be Highway 395 through the Eastern Sierras and the Million Dollar Highway in South Western Colorado~but don’t take your big rig on it). Before we had even started fulltiming Clark was pretty sure he was an “East Coast Person”…specifically well south of the Mason Dixon Line. But as we traveled through the color spectrum of rocks that Utah has to offer he quickly realized the West was where it’s at. {Thank Gawd, as a child I lived in several parts of the South and it’s just not for me}.

Dramatic views on Highway 12

 We made our way from Escalante to Capital Reef National Park (I bet some people haven’t even heard of this place) and sat slack-jawed at the scenery passing through our front windshield. The colors and textures set against vast blue skies made us shout WOW! and Look at That! many times.

We made a quick stop at Kiva Koffeehouse, a uniquely situated spot right along Highway 12 which offers plenty of room for the RV (with the toad) on the upper parking lot. The koffee shop is a beautiful piece of architecture in it’s own right but I still don’t think, even with it’s massive tree trunk supports, it compares with the views. The coffee was excellent and the staff super friendly. I highly suggest stopping in even if you aren’t a coffee drinker…they offer homemade soups, sandwiches, cold drinks and even a Kiva Kottage for those traveling without their rig.

FREE camp spot…not too shabby.

We boondocked about 5 miles from the entrance to Capital Reef National Park and stayed for 5 days. Since we spent almost all of our time exploring the park we weren’t bothered by the fact that there were other campers near us but there appears to be one or tow other options nearby. Check out this page on Campendium for details.

Grand Wash Road

Capital Reef has a lot going on…from the many colorful shades of rocks to ancient pictographs and petroglyphs to an old Mormon settlement complete with an old schoolhouse and orchards that still produce fruit. During harvest time visitors are allowed to pick fruit for a nominal fee. The area is awe-inspiring and you’ll seriously wonder how it is everyone talks about Yellowstone but anyone has even heard of Capital Reef (or so it seems).

Capitol Dome

But one of the most impressive parts of Capital Reef is the Waterpocket Fold. At 65 million years old, this geological wrinkle is 100 miles long and commands your attention. To get to the Strike Valley Overlook (where the photos below were taken) we drove the Notom-Bullfrog Road from our boondocking spot, all the way to the Burr Trail Swithcbacks, through part of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and Anasazi State Park and then north onto Highway 12 through the Dixie National Forest. It was amazing. It was also something like 130 miles.

Panoramic shot of the fold.

A little toast above the Waterpocket Fold.

 You won’t get bored in this park. There are hiking trails, driving loops, backpacking opportunities, rock climbing, horseback riding and biking trails. You can search for arches or, if the season is right, pick peaches.

Another view of the fold.

Peeking down at the Burr Trail Switchbacks we just climbed up in Chuck.

The campground inside the park does seem to fill up fast but there are also boondocking opportunities nearby, as well as at least one RV park with full hookups. You can also get water and the dump station for $7 (price was when visited in late spring 2015). When we drove the Burr Trail Road we noted several fantastic boondocking spots along the road…most with impressive views…however there was no cell service on out AT&T or Verizon carriers. But, if that doesn’t matter to you I would highly recommend checking out that area. You’re technically inside Grand Staircase and where there are plenty of hiking trails and easier access to the Strike Valley Overlook and Muley Twist Canyon. There’s also a unique little Natural Foods Store in Boulder (where Burr Trail Road meets Highway 12).

There are a few ghost towns east of Capital Reef (which also leads to the wonderful hiker’s paradise of Robber’s Roost). We took a day trip just for fun and stopped at this gas station/convenience store. While the gas pumps are your traditional style set up, the store was pretty cool…since it’s inside the mountain. They offer a great selection of local books including trail guides.

Capital Reef, and the nearby Robber Roost, are two places we can honestly picture ourselves returning to many times over. If you’ve been discouraged by the crowds at Zion, Arches and Grand Canyon, you’ll likely find yourself pleasantly surprised not only by the lack of crowds (for the most part) but also by the epicness and beauty of this area.

{Dates of Visit Apr 22-27, 2015}

Sometimes it pays to think outside the box…especially when you find yourself in overly crowded places and you remember your house has wheels, and an engine. Everyone in the world (okay, maybe a slight exaggeration) knows about the beauty and splendor of Zion and Arches–and I don’t want to diminish those facts–but it’s also a fact that, like Yellowstone or Yosemite, if you don’t plan it right your trip to these spots may involve long lines, crowded trails and lots of photo bombs from strangers. Of course, if you’re limited to when you can go you just might have to suck it up and deal with visiting the most popular parks during the most popular times of the year…and that’s okay (some people even thrive in crowds). But, you could also decide to visit some lesser known, but equally amazing places instead.

Making plans over coffee and desert.

We’ve mentioned Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument quite a few times in our last few posts. Part of the reason is that it’s so huge that we kept bumping into it as we traveled both Highway 89 and Highway 12. And part of it is because we really were impressed, not only with how utterly amazing the colors and textures were but also that we practically had the place to ourselves. After leaving Kodachrome State Park we once again we found ourselves in Grand Staircase. This time we were in the town of Escalante itself.

The afternoon we arrived in Escalante it decided to snow.

It turned out our Jeep, Chuck Norris, had developed a rotational, high-pitched squeal from his undercarriage. We inspected the drive-line, as best we could, for mud and dust and lubed what was lubeable…we’d been off-roading quite a bit…yet the noise persisted. With limited cell and wifi we struggled to search for information on what might be going on and the severity of the issue. A stop at the BLM office in Cannonville led us to a repair facility, Cottam’s Phillip 66, in Escalante. Turns out this is where the BLM brings their vehicle for service and repairs so we felt that we were in good hands.

Our unspoiled view.

Free camping at it’s finest.

Chuck needed a couple of u-joints and a center link, all of which had to be ordered. We decided to camp a few miles out of town on Hole-in-the-Rock Road which was not only free, but had fantastic views and just enough cell signal receive a phone call once our parts arrived (be sure to get your free permit at the BLM office). Unfortunately, since there was the possibility that the drive-line could seize (or some other vehicle stranding condition could occur) we decided to keep our adventures a little more close to home. (Additional link for the BLM land where we camped click here).

Hole-in-the-Rock Road is 62 miles long (one way) and ends at a point above Lake Powell in the Glen Canyon NRA. Originally part of an 1878 Mormon Expedition, the pioneers made their way down Hole-in-the-Rock trail only to be faced with the vertical cliffs of Glen Canyon and, undoubtedly, their failure to reach the the San Juan River to set up a new community in Bluff. But their tenacity and brilliant engineering proved otherwise. By blasting, digging and rigging up ropes the group managed to create a hole in the rock and lower all 83 wagons, the livestock, women and children safely down the 1800 foot cliff. There are so many points of interest along the road but we didn’t feel confident taking Chuck too far from our base camp.

We did, however, go as far as Zebra Slots.

About a mile into the hike the trail descends into a colorful canyon.

There are some great geological features to check out along the way.

Things get tricky at Harris Wash…the trail disappears and footprints scatter every which way. The going also gets laborious in the deep, fine sand.

Zebra Slots are located 5 miles down Hole-in-the-Rock Road. Parking can be found directly after the second cattle guard crossing. The trail begins across the road, through the rabbit brush and then drops into a canyon and continues for a total of about 2 miles until you hit Harris Wash. Finding the exact wash that leads to Zebra Slots can be tricky as you’ll be crossing into Harris Wash…a huge, deep sandy wash that eats footprints and obscures any semblance of a “trail”. At Harris Wash you’ll turn upstream (it was dry when we were there but that meant a left for us) and then the next confluence (no more than 1/4 mile) on the right (north) will lead you to the slots.

Moqui Marbles.

The entrance to Zebra Slot looks unremarkable.

It quickly becomes amazing.

The famous zebra stripes and some Moqui Marbles embedded in the sandstone.

Parts are so narrow it’s easier to just climb above them.

This slot is short lived but remarkable due to the stripped pattern in the rocks that lend to it’s name. Embedded in this walls of the slot, and scattered on the wash floor, are what’s known as Moqui Marbles. We squeezed and climbed and thoroughly enjoyed this slot. We saw only one other couple who was looking for the slot while we sat eating lunch surrounded by Moqui Marbles.

More Moqui Marbles.

Approaching Tunnel Slot across slick rock.

The entrance to Tunnel Slot.

The “other side” of Tunnel Slot…coming back through.

What started as a lovely day turned a little south when I persuaded Clark to continue on a loop hike I read about online that would take us to nearby Tunnel Slot (there is another, easier, way to get to Tunnel Slot so click at your own risk). What had once appeared to be very clear directions, from the comfort of our RV, now was a jumble of meaningless words as I looked at a landscape that appeared far different than what was being described in my notes. And, although I did finally make it to Tunnel Slot, Clark and I managed to get ourselves separated long enough to implement the “come find me technique” whereas I sit in one spot and blow my whistle until he shows up.

Although we were safe and our separation was short lived (neither of us was in any danger of being lost) it was still a reminder to stay together and to maintain verbal and visual contact since every twist and turn in a canyon can hinder both of those things. Should the person in the lead decide to turn into another wash others may not see you…and due to the deep sand they’ll never even see your foot prints. Another lesson learned.

Needless to say, the hike back out was more arduous than it was coming in…deep sand and a steady uphill climb was a bit draining after walking in the various washes. But it was still fantastic.

Chuck’s day at the spa…

Oh, and we managed to get Chuck in for repairs before we headed off to our next destination…Capital Reef National Park. FYI: Cottam’s went above and beyond to get our problem diagnosed and parts ordered right away. We wouldn’t hesitate to recommend them and found their pricing to be more than fair. Kudos to the gentlemen at Cottam’s. Also, if you’re looking to grab a bite to eat out in Escalante we recommend Escalante Outfitters…a local shop where you can get fitting for hiking boots and pick up maps as well a nice up of coffee and some killer pizza. It’s a really great spot!

Note: Zebra and Tunnel Slots are rated as difficult because of the lack of trail markers once you reach Harris Wash. Hikers get lost all the time so map reading skills are imperative. Zebra Slot is often wet…sometimes with waist deep water. Be as prepared as possible by stopping in the BLM office and speaking with a Ranger. We didn’t find any hiking “flyers” on either slot and could only get specific information when we asked about those slots by name (they don’t advertise this two slots to the general public, instead sending most people to the “safer” Spooky and Peek-a-Boo Slots). Be sure to ask about road, weather, slot and trail conditions. Neither Zebra nor Tunnel are technical slots and should require any special equipment…it’s only the getting lost part that grants these slots the “difficult” rating.

Your’s truly down inside Bull Valley Gorge.

We’d waited a looooong time to finally visit Kodachrome Basin State Park. Every since Nealy’s on Wheels blogged about it back in May of 2014 it had been on our radar and, after reading about a couple of nearby hikes in our recently acquired guide book Favorite Hikes In & Around Zion National Park by Tanya Milligan and Bo Beck, we were super stoked to have arrived.

The Mutiny at Kodachrome Basin State Park.

Kodachrome was named in 1949 after a National Geographic team came out and photographed the amazing colors on their equally amazing (and brand new) Kodak film…some of you reading may remember film, right? Dotted with towering sandstone spires, you can be sure that this park is pretty extraordinary. Full hookup sites will set you back $28 per night while dry camping is $19 per night. Due to its close proximity to Grand Staircase-Escalante there are also boondocking options on BLM land but, you do need a permit. (Be sure to stop at the Cannonville Visitor Center before making the drive out to find a campsite in Grande Staircase).

Although Kodachrome offers several hiking options right in the park we were there for something else…two slot canyon hikes in Grand Staircase. These two hikes are our all-time favorites of all that we did in the entirety of this region. Now, I know it may seem confusing because we’d hike a slot a few weeks earlier in Grand Staircase (before we even got to Zion) but remember, at 1.9 million acres, Grand Staircase is huge. So, some parts are easier to access from Big Water, or Kanab, or Kodachrome (Henrieville, UT), or Escalante and even from Capital Reef National Park.

Skutumpah Road…fairly well maintained at this point (any car could drive it) but conditions change fast. Rain makes it slick as snot and impossible to drive on (seriously, don’t even try).

Disclaimer: We aren’t experts in hiking, climbing or canyoneering, all of which can be dangerous activities. It’s imperative that you understand your own capabilities (be honest) and obtain the most current information about the trails you want to hike and the roads you’ll need to drive to get there. Always, always, always be aware of trail and weather conditions. Skutumpah Road is impassible once it starts raining and it’s highly unlikely you’ll get cell signal in this area…and even if you do, we heard the BLM ranger warn a hiker that they will not send anyone out to rescue them until the roads are safe to do so. We advise everyone to check in at the ranger station for information on all trails and impending weather…the sun may be shining when you set out on the trail but even if it rains several miles away it can cause flash flooding throughout the region.

Now, how about those hikes…

Day One: Willis Creek

Look for this sign.

According to our hiking guide (see link above) Willis Creek–>Sheep Creek–>Bull Valley Gorge is a 17 miles loop…perfect for a very long day (10 hours) or an overnighter (there are tent campsite recommendations in the book). However, we decided to tackle Willis Creek as 4-5 mile out & back trail. From Kodachrome once you exit the park make a right on the main road (toward Cannonville and Hwy 12) and then a left onto Skutumpah Road. This is a dirt road but should be in good enough condition even for passenger vehicles. Travel about 5.5 SW on this road you’ll find a parking area and the trailhead for Willis Creek.

Here’s where the creek cuts into the rock…it’s a baby slot! Come back in a million years and it will be hikable!

The other side of the above picture…the funny little waterfall.

At the trailhead just look for the creek and head downstream. You’ll find a funny little waterfall (the creek runs year-round) and the start of the narrows, which goes on for about 2.5 miles. The walls continue to get higher and there are some nice, very narrow sections along with plenty of great photo ops. Once the canyon walls widen and the trails broadens into a deep, sandy wash you can turn around (unless you’re making the long loop). This is a fairly popular hike because it’s easy and non-technical so everyone in the family can experience the slots even if they can’t hike very far (simply turn around at any point). Because the creek runs year-round be prepared for wet and/or muddy conditions. At the time of our hike, the water flow was low but leftover snow melt made for some slick, muddy sections. We saw maybe 6 people during our entire hike. For further details on this hike click here.

Day Two: Bull Valley Gorge

A handy-dandy sign.

Bull Valley Gorge was the most impressive slot we hiked. While not quite as easy of a stroll as Willis Creek, during our hike the conditions of the slot did not require any equipment and not much technical skill (there was some climbing but tree trunks and large boulders made each drop accessible for us). Just remember, trail conditions change every season and after each rain (or snow) which is why we recommend you check with the ranger before heading out to these slots. Also, for all of the dryfalls and boulders, you will potentially have to climb down and over you will have to climb back over or up them to get out. So, be honest with your abilities (and be sure you can climb back out) before you commit to going any further. For details on this slot click here.

Near the start of the slots where the walls are low and let in a lot more light.

The trailhead for Bull Valley is just a couple of miles past Willis Creek. You’ll cross a small bridge, which you’ll actually be hiking under, so find a parking spot shortly past the bridge. Walk back over the bridge. You’ll hike up canyon, on the right side of the slot (the gorge on your left), and should cross a registration box rather quickly. Hike about a mile or so along the ridge. You’ll be tempted to drop down into the canyon at several points but don’t do it…hike up canyon until you can basically step into it so you don’t miss all the spectacularness. Once you drop down you’ll start hiking down canyon and the walls will grow taller and taller. FWIW, we only saw one other couple during the several hours we were in this slot.

The truck…the walls are so high here that I was unable to get the slot floor in the shot.

Soon you’ll get to the bridge (the one you drove across to park). Look up and spot the 1954 Pickup wedged in the canyon. The story is that the pickup slid off of the old wooden bridge that once spanned the narrows killing the 3 men inside. The bodies were recovered but the truck was left in place. Dirt, boulders and trees were shoved into the crevasse to widen the road. I’m not gonna lie, it was a little eerie walking underneath that truck. The narrows go on for about 2 miles. Once you’re done exploring simply turn around and retrace your steps back to your vehicle.

And now…for a ridiculous amount of photos from Bull Valley Gorge…

These two slots certainly made up for any lingering disappointment we might have had for “missing out on” Antelope Canyon and Zion. To this date, they are among the most memorable adventures in our 3 1/2 years on the road. If and when we “settle down” one of our top priorities will be to live near enough to Southern Utah so we can visit often.

Quite possibly our favorite Scenic Byway is Utah’s Highway 12 (Highway 395 puts up quite a fight though). In it’s 124 miles Highway 12 passes through 2 National Parks, 1 National Monument, a National Forest and 3 Utah State Parks. It’s dotted with quirky small towns, each offering something unique along with a warm friendliness not easily found in bigger towns and cities. And even though our attempt at visiting Zion earlier in the week was a bust, we were confident we’d be able to explore Bryce Canyon National Park and that’s where we headed next.

Boondocking outside of Bryce Canyon National Park.

Since we had just paid for a week of full hookups in Mount Carmel, we intended to boondock at a spot we found on Gone With the Wynn’s blog. Once we arrived at the spot, and it was pretty nice, we found it difficult to get level. And once we got somewhat level we discovered our hot water heater was leaking. At first it didn’t appear too bad but with the overnight temperatures dropping well below freezing we woke to find the water pump bay not only flooded but that inch and a half of standing water had frozen solid. Fearing we would do more damage we reluctantly moved to the RV park run by Ruby’s Inn. At $48 per night it was a shock to the wallet but, we were now several miles closer to the park, had no fear of pipes freezing and breaking (been there, done that) and we had unlimited access to the indoor pool and hot tub (along with the dozens of families still on Spring Break…but still).

This is what I woke up to our first morning…16 degrees and icicles hanging off of the water pump bay.

With our stay being rather expensive, we had only a few days to hike as much of Bryce as we could. We hiked every day.

Day One: Queens Garden

Long live the Queen!

A massive amount of switchbacks to test your thighs (and slickness of your shoe tread!).

This 3.5 mile loop is the most popular hikes in the park. It’s not too difficult but, like all of Bryce, it’s in a canyon and has a pretty decent elevation change. Plenty of water and lots of breaks makes it doable for most people…hell, we even saw some tackling it in dress shoes (although we always recommend proper footwear). Even though we shared the trail with loads of other hikers (and I use that term loosely) it’s worth checking out. It offers some of the best examples of the rock formations (hoodoos), erosion and “windows” that make Bryce famous. Be sure to take the spur to Queens Garden Trail (it’s a great spot for a snack or picnic). Navajo Loop was recommended in our Favorite Hikes trail guide as a return trail but it still closed due to snow. If it’s open when you visit be sure to check it out.

Day Two: SwampCreek/Sheep Creek Loop

The trail had a few patches of snow, some of which we had to traverse.

Admittedly, as beautiful as Queens Garden was, and as much as I think it’s worth it to do that hike, it’s crowded. Anytime you have to share the trail with people who are either unprepared to hike or don’t understand trail etiquette (or rules about not climbing on arches and hoodoos for “photo-ops”) it can have a negative impact on your own hike. A nice reprieve from that noise is the Swamp Creep/Sheep Creek Loop. At 4.3 miles long, this loop was completely devoid of any other hikers the day we completed it. It was beautiful, serene and just what our nerves needed after hiking with so many people the day before. If you want some time to decompress and reconnect with nature check out this trail. The trail is rated moderate and wildlife encounters should be expected.

Day Three: Fairyland Loop

China Wall

Tower Bridge

Fairyland has all the makings of being the most popular trail in the park. It provides access to the Tower Bridge and China Wall and hoodoos that will blow your mind. But, it’s also 8 miles long, thereby making it less popular for your average tourist. Clark will tell you I tricked him into hiking the entire loop but I say he’s full of it. Sure, we originally intended to just hike out to Tower Bridge and then retrace our steps back to the Jeep. But once we got to the fork in the road (literally) he decided we should do the loop (okay, I may have fudged in just how far it was to complete the loop versus returning to the trailhead). Actually, he really wanted to avoid climbing up the massive incline we were facing if we just did an out-and-back hike. Fairyland is the most amazing hike in my opinion. It’s pretty much non-stop hoodoos and the views define what makes Bryce, Bryce. Be prepared for a somewhat steep descent into the canyon and an equally steep ascent out (no matter which direction you do the loop).

Bryce Canyon sits at an elevation of 7,664 feet with a high point of over 9,000 feet. That alone can challenge hikers even in really good shape. Take that into consideration when setting out on a hike. Be prepared to take more breaks if you’re not quite acclimated.

Clark offering a hand up in Red Hollow slot.

 Being the brave souls that we are (not really, more like oblivious wanderers), we decided to attempt a few days in Zion National Park. I mean, we were this close already and the road we were taking north had us passing by the park’s east entrance. So, an attempt was really no skin off our teeth and only 13 miles “out-of-the-way”. Since we’d been a week without Internet, and therefore our most needed tool for finding boondocking spots, we opted to stay at the cute (but tiny) Mount Caramel Motel & RV Park just north of Kanab. Long, hot showers and an on-site Post Office being the major draw. We snugged into a spot, took care of some mail (the owner of the park is also the Post Master), handled the growing pile of dirty laundry and resupplied at the local grocer in Kanab.

The article from AAA magazine I’d been carrying around for 3 years.

Many years ago I had gotten in the habit of cutting out articles, recipes or photos of things that sparked my interest…very much like an old fashioned Pinterest…but one that involved scissors, a folder or a notebook and paper to which I glue all of my clippings. It was practically like being a caveman! Well, since Dec. 2011 I’ve been toting around a brief interview with Ann Torrence regarding her (then) recently published book U.S. Highway 89: The Scenic Route to Seven Western National Parks. I’d been longing to do the entire drive, which runs from Canada to Mexico, but it was never feasible. But here we were, on Highway 89. The last question in the interview was “A treat you discovered on the way?” and her answer was “The pie at Thunderbird Restaurant, 12 miles outside Zion National Park’s east entrance”. So, guess what we did? We indulged in their apple pie with warm bourbon sauce and ice cream, naturally.

Then we tried to hike Zion. We entered from the East and, having at least read that the only way to access the iconic trails and overlooks was to take the shuttle, we headed toward the Visitors Center. There were cars everywhere…and absolutely no parking, anywhere. Not at the turnouts, not at the overflow areas, not in the parking lots, not even several miles out. We continued to drive through the park and out of the West entrance into the town of Springdale. We looked up and down the side streets searching for a single parking spot and finally finding one at the very last city shuttle stop. We grabbed our backpacks and hopped on a shuttle. By the time we got to the visitors center it was standing room only…which is putting it mildly. A few passengers had grumbled that there wasn’t any more room whenever our driver stopped to pick up more people. The driver promptly told us all that if we thought this was crowded just wait until we got on the park services shuttles…this was nothing!

This is about as much as we saw of Zion…

It was a madhouse. The lines, the crowds, the unhappy kids and even unhappier parents insisting their kids have a good time, or else. It was all but impossible to talk to a Ranger about the various hikes and trail conditions because the lines were out the door. Standing in the gift shop slightly heartbroken, a 20 pound backpack holding our picnic lunch strapped to my back and ready to see all.the.things I reluctantly stamped my National Parks Passport Book knowing we weren’t going to be able to see any.of.the.things. I also picked up a copy of Edward Abbey’s Desert Solitude. Abbey, known for his loathing of the ever increasing number of vehicles in National Parks that go hand-in-hand with the expansion of asphalt roads leading auto-tourists to the base of every major site (and thereby giving us the ability to enjoy the “wonders of the parks” from the comfort of our leather seats and air conditioning), spoke to me through this quote:

“most of my wandering in the desert i’ve done alone. not so much from choice as from necessity – i generally prefer to go into places where no one else wants to go. i find that in contemplating the natural world my pleasure is greater if there are not too many others contemplating it with me, at the same time.”
― Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire

We hoped back on the shuttle, treated ourselves to lunch at the famous Whiptail Grill (delicious spaghetti squash enchiladas) and headed back to the Mutiny. Thus ended our adventures in Zion…

Not to be deterred I wandered over to the hotel lobby at the Thunderbird to try to get some information on things to do in the area. Surely the locals here don’t bother going to Zion (at least not during or after Spring Break). Where do they go for hiking? While the gift shop was a bust, selling only the normal literature on the most famous hikes in Zion, a woman at the registration counter suggested the book Favorite Hikes in & Around Zion National Park by locals Tanya Milligan and Bo Beck. This book was indispensable.

This red striping is a clue that you’re getting very close to the red slot.

Depending on the rains, there may be some small obstacles to climb over, most are easily navigated.

Not too bad for a short, easy, free and uncrowded hike.

The most notable hike we competed while in this area was Red Hollow (page 92). An easy 3.2 mile out-and-back hike, the only equipment needed to check out this cool slot are sticky bottomed hiking shoes, water and sunscreen. It was also only 5 miles from where we were camped. Although the slot section is somewhat short, the colors are amazing. It makes for a great introduction to slots and is especially appealing for families with small children or those who don’t want to deal with a technical climb.

Don’t be fooled by the chain link fence, these dogs have 5-star accommodations including community dog spaces and separate runs for those who are not used to other dogs (or who prove to be true loners). Every dog is walked at least once a day by a human volunteer, often with other dogs to help them socialize. Inside the housing areas volunteers and staff work with each animal to get them used to the sounds and stimuli they might encounter when they get adopted. This includes vacuum cleaners, doorbells, brooms and people of all ages.

The cat rooms are like rooms in a house, except with tons of hiding spot, cat toys and scratching posts all around. There are couches and rocking chairs for them to lounge on as well as screened in patios. Volunteers spend huge amounts of time in the cat areas, sometimes just sitting and reading to them (and offering up a lap for the cuddlers).

Clark giving some love to a kitty that looks a lot like our Miso.All cats live within a cat community but are separated if they have illnesses or are recovering from surgery. There is also a section specifically for cats with communicable illnesses (like Feline HIV) who are still adoptable and totally lovable.

There are 1,300 wind chimes and 5,800 animals buried at Best Friends. Some are pets of members who wanted their furry friends to be part of the beautiful scenery. It’s really something to behold.

One of the plaques in the cemetery.

We also visited Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, the nations largest no-kill companion animal sanctuary. More than 9,000 healthy and treatable companion animals are euthanized every day in the U.S. and Best Friends mission is to reduce that number and, even better, to reduce the number of homeless pets that end up in shelters in the first place. The facility took in 22 of the 51 “Michael Vick” dogs and is home to the TV show Dogtown. Free tours are available daily but it’s best to register ahead of time. Be sure to check out their website for a list of special tours too. A vegetarian buffet lunch is served 7 days a week at $5 per person. The drive through Angel Canyon alone is stunning and there are several hiking options as well. Ask at the visitors center and they’ll be happy to give you a map. (Note: There are two full hookup RV spots available at the Sanctuary costing $30-$50 per night. There is also ample RV parking at the main visitors center for day trips).

Other fun things to do in the area:

From the set of The Outlaw Josie Wales.

Little Hollywood Movie Museum: Since 1924, the Kanab area has been the setting for over 100 films and numerous TV shows (The Lone Ranger, Gunsmoke, Lassie and F Troop). Many of the hotels around town have housed famous movie stars and directors while filming on location. The Museum has acquired several movie sets and now has them on display. You do have to pass through a large gift shop filled with everything from bedazzled jeans and “Indian Artifacts” (possibly made in China) to get to the movie sets…and it may be a bit cheesy but it’s also a part of that Roadside America that tends to draw us in. And it’s free (unless you feel the need to buy a gen-u-wine arrowhead or some other knickknack from the store).

The entrance to Moqui Cave.

Moqui Cave: While you’re in the Roadside America frame of mind you may as well swing on by the Moqui Cave. Some may call it a tourist trap as opposed to a tourist attraction but at only $5 per adult we felt it was a fun way to spend the afternoon. The cave boasts one of the largest collection of fluorescent fossil and mineral collections in the U.S. It also has an astounding collection of ancient Anasazi arrowheads (the real ones), tools and pottery…you know, all the stuff that was most likely pillaged from places like Mesa Verde before the land became protected. You’ll find dinosaur tracks, an old prohibition bar in the back (unfortunately, you can’t get a drink here anymore) and a big history lesson during this stop.

Books, coffee and outdoor gear?? What kind of sorcery is this?!

Willow Canyon Outfitters (and Coffee…and Books): If you’ve been following us for any length of time you’ve likely seen a bit of a theme when it comes to coffee and books. They are my favorite things. Now, combine them with an outfitters and it’s like heaven on earth. Since you won’t find any Starbucks here in the boonies you’re gonna need an alternative spot for some java. You might as well stop at Willow Canyon and chat it up with other hikers, book lovers and coffee aficionados. This is also a great place to ask about hikes and other local area adventures. Just around the corner is the Kanab office of the Escalante BLM and where you can enter the daily lottery for a spot to hike out to Coyote Buttes North, aka The Wave.

Inside Mammoth Cave, as far as we could get…it gets dark right away so bring a headlamp, flashlight or both.

Mammoth Cave (and the Dixie National Forest): We like lava tubes and caves so why wouldn’t we make the drive to Dixie National Forest to check them out? Since it was early in the season, we found a lot of snow and cold weather during our day trip to the caves. We also found that the deepest part of Mammoth Cave was closed for bat hibernation. Regardless, the drive was phenomenal (we passed a field of bison, some horses with brand new foals and some quaint log cabin communities). There are a lot of other things to do in Dixie NF, including plenty of off-roading, but the snow at these higher elevations made most of it impassible during our visit. Likewise, the road to Cedar Breaks National Monument was closed due to snow.

There are plenty of other things to do in the area from a handful of restaurants to 4×4 trails, hiking galore and knickknack shopping. So, if you find yourself squeezed out of Zion like we were, know that there are options in the area that will fill your days…at least until you can get back to Zion during the “off-season”.
 

Lick Wash narrows…our first slot canyon hike.

Spring Break…a time so many students, family and businesses look forward to every year can be a thorn in the side of fulltimers as campgrounds, hiking trails and National Parks fill to capacity (sometimes overflowing) with those seeking a break from suburbia. If you read the previous couple of blog posts you’ll see a theme here. We failed to account for the fact that Spring Break encompasses several weeks of staggered schedules various school systems have these days. So, just because all the Easter eggs have been found and chocolate bunnies have been consumed it doesn’t mean it’s safe (or even feasible) to venture to certain {popular}areas of the country. And trust me, Zion National Park, is no exception. In all actuality, once Spring Break hits it’s open season at Zion…pretty much until winter.

Don’t be fooled…this isn’t the Badlands or Death Valley. It’s Grand Staircase~Escalante!

We were traveling West on Highway 89 from Page, Arizona to Kanab, Utah, passing through the Paria area of Grand Staircase~Escalante National Monument. Grand Staircase is the first monument to be managed by the Bureau of Land Management rather than the National Parks Service and at 1.9 million acres, it’s a monumental task. It’s more remote, and far less visited, than it’s bordering NPS neighbors, Zion, Arches and Bryce, yet is made up of the same “staircase” that makes these other parks remarkable. And, it’s a fulltimers dream come true during the high-season.

How could we pass up this view??

Since it’s run by the BLM there are many boondocking opportunities, unlike most National Parks which only allow camping in developed campgrounds. But, being newbies to the whole “finding appropriate campsites we could fit in” we struggled for a while to find a suitable spot. We tried the gravel pit at the BLM contact station (too far from our destination) and the Paria Movie Set site (not big rig friendly unless you want to park along side Highway 89). We took a chance and headed up Johnson Canyon Road. As daylight was fading we were hitting a brick wall. In an act of desperation we disconnected the Jeep and we scouted an almost invisible dirt road we’d passed earlier. The scrub on the sides of the road was overgrown enough to touch the sides of the Jeep but it opened up to the most beautiful camping spot we’d ever seen. And no one else was there. We knew taking the Mutiny down this road would result in some new “pinstripes” but we felt the campsite was worth it. And it was.

A little sage brush never hurt…right?

Worth it!

The one and only problem with the area we were camping was that we had absolutely no cell signal (not AT&T or Verizon) but that was hardly a reason for us to move. Instead, we welcomed the break from the time suck that social media has become. Of course, it did make finding places to hike more difficult but we had picked up some information at the Paria Contact Station and did take a drive into Kanab to use some wifi and managed to find a hike that alleviated any lingering regrets we might have had in skipping Antelope Canyon.

Lick Wash is a fairly easy slot hike suitable for most people who are comfortable hiking several miles (various sites report it’s 4.0 to 5.5 miles round trip) . It’s also an out-and-back, meaning you can turn around at any point. And, the slot narrows fairly quickly so you don’t have to hike too far to get maximum enjoyment. While we were here we passed a few people on their way out of the slot. Then we had the whole place to ourselves. It was pretty magical…

Nature is such a wonderful artist.

We read about several more slots and were eager to check them out but discovered they’d be easier to get to once we made it to the north side of the park (the access from Highway 22). Luckily, our campsite had plenty of hiking, rock scrambling and adventure without having to drive anywhere. Every single day I got up and explored the many different textures, colors, washes and mountains. Every morning I hiked to one of the washes and looked at the “highway system” of rabbit, rodent, lizard, coyote and insect tracks left behind. These are some very busy night critters.

Such cute footprints.

A multitude of colors.

Windswept textures.

How can this even exist?

Indian Paint Brush.

It never stops.

Although I had hiked by this particular wall several times, it wasn’t until we did a late afternoon hike that I was able to see these petroglyphs. They were virtually invisible until the light hit them just right. These were literally less than 1/4 mile from our front door…unmarked, no real trail to guide you there. How freakin’ amazing!

Our week unplugged really helped us overcome some of the disappointment we had been feeling as we ventured through some of the most popular areas in the Southwest. We never saw another person anywhere near our campsite or in the many acres surrounding us. Nights were dark and silent and days were relaxing and peaceful. A perfect way to spend part of Spring Break

Our spot…you can’t really even see the road in…that white stuff is actually a big, sandy wash.

Can you spot the Mutiny?

Next up: Kanab, Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, a HWY 89 dream and a big Zion FAIL that leads to the discovery of something even better.

You know what’s really cool (bedsides RVing)? Building up a network of fellow RVers and bloggers who see where you’re heading and then make awesome recommendations for a side adventure. That’s what our good friends Nealys On Wheels did when they saw we were heading north from Salt Lake City. Seems we were a few weeks behind them…but bound for the same late July destination of Glacier National Park.

So, Jennifer Nealy, being the amazing planner and sharer of information that she is, set me a message advising us to stop at Bear Lake, situated on the border of Utah and Idaho. And, since she’s way better than me at updating her blog in a timely manner I was able to read her post and see just how gorgeous the area was before I book a spot.

Everything about our travels to Bear Lake was memorable from the drive all the way up Logan Canyon (Scenic Highway 89) to the stunning views of the turquoise water of the lake at the summit.

Beautiful right? Well, here are a few facts about Bear Lake:

1. It’s a natural lake…meaning it isn’t a reservoir and there are no dams…and it’s growing.
2. It’s color comes from the sunlight reflecting of off suspended limestone deposits.
3. It’s over 250,000 years old!
4. There are 2 “Bear Lake State Parks”…one in Idaho and one in Utah (because the state line bisects the lake…each state “owning” half of the lake).
5. It’s home to several species of fish and fauna found only in the lake. 
6. Bear Lake Wildlife Refuge (on the Idaho side) is a season home to many species of waterfowl with an emphasis on saving the redhead and canvasback ducks, trumpeter swans and white-faced ibis. It’s also a great spot for a picnic and photo-shoot.

Red-tail hawk babies?? Anyone know?

Before we even made it to the campground we pulled over at one of the burger and shake joints to sample the areas famous Bear Lake Raspberry Shakes. This should be a requirement for anyone who visits.

Officially Bear Lakers now!

We stayed at the Bear Lake State Park in Utah…mostly because we didn’t know there was another state park. Since we made our reservation last minute, we were unable to get one of the coveted pull-thru spaces closet to the water but our site was huge and had full hook-ups for only $25 per night. Once we got to the campground we found that the water is actually pretty far away…within walking distance, yes, but with some shrubs and lots of sand in between. Regardless, the sunsets were lovely as were the strolls along the “beach”.

Tiny shells make up a lot of the beach.

Pastel sunsets graced the skies every night we were there.

But the campground was not the best part…and neither were the shakes. It was the hiking!

I believe it was our stay here at Bear Lake that really sparked (or maybe rekindled) our love for hiking. It took a day and half of researching before I realized there was actually a lot of great hikes in the area. We initially had been worried about how we were going to fill 9 days on a lake too cold to swim in, near a town so small you can see it all in less than an hour. We ended up not having enough time to “do it all”.

Our top 5 favorite hikes…

5) Limber Pine Trail:
    This is an easy, fairly flat 1.5 mile loop that takes you past fields of wildflowers, fir and aspens into the arms of a 500 year old limber pine tree. Well, it turns out it’s really 5 limber pines that grew together…forming what appears to be one huge tree. The base is 25 feet in circumference. Suitable for all levels, kids and kids at heart.

4) Laketown Canyon Trail:

This is a fun little hike (or mountain bike ride) that takes you through a canyon and past a little lake. Although it’s 7 miles round trip it’s still a fairly easy hike (a bit more difficult on a bike due to some rolling hills). It’s on this trail that we spotted Clark’s first moose (in real life) and came across some newborn calves. We also found the Bridge to Terabithia where we stopped for lunch.

There really was a little bridge that lead to this…

Secret rest stop.

Brand new babies…

Trust me…that’s a moose right there.

3) Wind Cave Trail:
     A tough hike up but very rewarding. This is a popular trail so expect to share the trail with others. Beautiful views of Logan Canyon help make the 1000 foot climb much more bearable.

 
2) Bloomington Lake:
    The majority of this trek was done in the Jeep on a dusty Forest Service road outside of nearby Bloomington, Idaho. An easy .5 miles hike (give or take) is all that’s left to bring to bring you to a spectacular glaciated lake. An impressive headwall and unique display of wildflowers make this a must-see. High clearance vehicles advised.

1) White Pine Lake:

Yes it was 8 miles round trip…and there was quite a bit of elevation change (1344 foot). Our thighs were screaming on portions of this hike and our lungs sometimes ached for oxygen (the trailhead is at 7500 feet) but it was the most rewarding and therefore, our favorite hike in the Bear Lake area. Not only were the meadow ridge and alpine lake views spectacular but we encountered wildflowers, very few people, and had a picture perfect picnic spot right on the lake.

 

The Bear Lake/Logan Canyon area is definitely one of our favorite areas…as a matter of fact, that seems to be true of most of Utah. I guess I just never knew there was so much diversity here from the red rock formations in Moab to the painted canyons of the Southern portion of the state to the alpine meadows and bold mountain ranges…it’s all really quite impressive.

And since I can’t seem to decide which photos to post (and which to leave out) I’m going to bombard you with a sampling from around the Bear Lake area now…

 

Note to self: Never, ever, ever, ever camp at Willard Bay State Park near Salt Lake City again (at least not at the Southern campground).

Truthfully, it turns out that there are two sections to the campground at Willard Bay…and, as luck would have it, we chose the one that was essentially a parking lot on the boat ramp that invited 3.2 beer swilling, bare-chested, rolling coal (Google it) rednecks (are they still called rednecks in Utah?) who like to party…loudly. Oh, and let’s throw in a side of 15+ adolescent boys crammed into one campsite, you guessed it, right next to us. Did I mention this was literally a parking lot? You just kinda stopped near an electrical pedestal with no kind of privacy between campsites while you sat and watched big azz pick up trucks circle around looking for parking after dropping their boats in the water? Fun times and we got to pay $25 per night for this luxury.

On the plus side, we were right on the banks of Willard Bay which is a part of the Great Salt Lake. And we were positioned to capture some great sunset pictures. We even found some fledgling owls who (see what I did there) obliged us by posing for photos. And it really is picturesque (away from the “campground”).

On the negative side, well, besides the entire “campground” experience, there were bugs beyond belief. Seriously! Now, I try really hard not to dock a campground for things beyond their control like a spell of bad weather or even a few mosquitoes…I mean, we all know that there are bugs in the world and it’s ridiculous to complain about things like the humidity in Florida in August should you choose to visit Florida in August (just don’t). But the amount of bugs at Willard Bay was beyond comprehension. And that is no exaggeration.

Oh it looks so lovely…

We took what we thought would be a nice bike ride to capture the scenery of the area (we’re always looking for the positive in an area, no matter how bad it may seem) only to have to turn around and high-tail it for cover. We were being pelted with bugs as if we were the giant windshield of say…an RV. To top it of we were also being eaten alive. No joke. We spent 2 nights at Willard Bay smelling like Off!, nursing bug bites and watching rednecks roll coal in the parking lot (aka, outside of our front windows).

But in order to really embrace the Great Salt Lake, home of the LDS and 3.2 beer, we took a drive into Brigham City, just one of the towns named after ol’ Brigham Young, to find some local fresh fruit and do some laundry. As our luck would have it, there was a local barber shop next door to the laundromat. We like locals. And Clark was due for a trim. And we had to wait 40 minuted for the clothes to dry anyway so…

Clark got a haircut. This was no ordinary haircut though. This was a genuine old school haircut that Brigham Young himself would be proud of (or maybe the Quaker Oats guy)…and I’m not trying to bash any religion here…but you know, they could get a little more current with their idea of a flattering cut. During the entire process we had a great chat with the owner/stylist, who has lived here his entire life. He had a small but thriving business in this small town where everyone knows everyone. He was a very nice man…but Clark walked out of there looking like Randy Quaid’s character Ishmael in the movie Kingpin. Sure I could have said something before we paid the guy and walked out but what fun would that be?

So, I hadn’t planned on dedicating an entire post to our 2 night stay somewhere we hope to never return to but alas, here it is. I guess the baby owls, sunset and that haircut just demanded the attention.

Note: We never go around to checking out the other part of Willard Bay State Park, which might be quite beautiful. If you find yourself in this area just do yourself a favor and avoid the marina part…unless you like that kind of thing.

{Dates of Visit Jun 14-22, 2014}

The Wasatch Mountains from our campsite.

True to form the Mutiny crew traveled north, from Moab to Provo, ill-prepared. Well, it’s not as if we didn’t have enough food or gas…we just had no idea what the area would offer as far as sight-seeing or hiking. Coming from an exceptional week of the red rocks, deep canyons, impossible arches and the sheer magnificence of Arches, Canyonlands and Dead Horse Point we knew that city life, even if just for a few days, would be a shock to the system.

So what did we do?

Our spacious site at Utah Lake State Park.

Well, it started with a short 2 night stay at Utah Lake State Park in Provo/Orem, which allowed us a little time to get our bearings, and ended with a whole new plan…and new route, naturally. One of the beautiful things about a house on wheels is that, with the risk of driving off to new places without reservations (for the most part), you can change your mind, and your destination, any time.

 Utah Lake State Park is a nice place to stay to check out the city. We were still living with our heads in the clouds of small town living and, between our recent stays in the small towns of Mancos and Moab, we were overwhelmed with the idea of traffic, big box stores, traffic and chain restaurants. However, we were thrilled to find out that the area is pretty bike friendly…and found an off-the-street bike path that ran all the way from our campground into the city. Additionally, the campground is on the outskirts of the city and has a nice country charm to it.

Scenes from the bike trail near Utah Lake.

On the Provo River Parkway.

 The Provo River Parkway is actually a multipurpose path that runs 15.2 miles, from Utah Lake to the mouth of Provo Canyon. And, despite some of the scary, narrow tunnels (is anyone coming from the other direction?!?!) we were able to enjoy a nice espresso and some BBQ in the city without having to deal with traffic.

Our camp site at Wasatch State Park in Midway, Utah.

Our short stay allowed for us to do a tiny bit of research on things-to-do in the area and which led to us moving up into Provo Canyon. We stayed just 3 nights at Wasatch State Park in Midway, Utah but they were 3 glorious days filled with quirkiness and beauty.

First, it snowed on us. Yes, it was mid-June, but Mother Nature seems to take these dates with a grain of salt.

Second, we found out that Midway is a quaint little town that drew Swiss immigrants to its rugged beauty back in the 1860-70’s. And it’s kept that Swiss charm which is displayed in the architecture and hospitality. And here’s the important part…despite it having a population of less than 2,500 people, it still manages to have at least 3 excellent restaurants, a great coffee shop, a professional 18-hole golf course and a “hot-pot”.

Which brings me to…

Hello aqua-blue, mineral-rich warm goodness.

The lodge at Homestead Crater.

Third, there’s a natural “hot tub” in a dome/cave thingy! This hot-pot is technically a geothermal caldera called Homestead Crater…and it was the real reason we came. Right in the heart of the town is a 55 foot tall, beehive shaped naturally formed dome that houses a wonderful secret. It’s a 10,000 year old hot tub formed from snow melt which is heated by geothermal action (water seeps through the limestone, heats up and is pushed back up filled with mineral goodness) to a comfortable 90-96 degrees Fahrenheit. There is a fee of $11-$16 per person (depending on the day of the week) but I think it’s well worth it. You can even get scuba certified in the cave!

Driving to Park City…the back way.

Fourth, we found out through a local that we could drive all the way to Park City without ever getting on a highway. To be more specific, we never even drove on a paved road until we reached Park City. Yep…a lovely late morning drive that included huge clusters of Aspens and sweeping views of the valley…which led to a nice stroll around Park City for some lunch at Vinto (wood-fired pizza) and, thanks to a recommendation from Nealy’s on Wheels, a couple of delicious cocktails at High West Saloon and Distillery.

I tried both the Bandit Queen (made with their Double Rye) and the Fool’s Gold (made with their Boureye)…lemme tell ya, the Fool’s Gold was most excellent.

Even in the summer you can take the City Lift from downtown to the top of the mountain.

We made a new friends at the top of the mountain.

We really enjoyed Park City since, much like Telluride, it’s still got a small town feel with a nice main street and all local shops and restaurants. No big box stores here. Sure, it’s all very expensive but at least it doesn’t feel like you’re in Disneyland. The mountain is open for summer activities like hiking and a scenic lift ride as well as an alpine slide and alpine coaster.

Taking the back roads above Sundance and enjoying the Aspen Groves.

Fifth, we were close to Sundance and pretended to be Jeremiah Johnson hiking out amongst the aspens. If you’re not “in the know”, Jeremiah Johnson is the 1972 film starring Robert Redford about a man who longs for solitude while living at peace with nature. Much of the film was shot in Robert Redford’s backyard…literally. And if you make the drive up past Sundance, you’ll also see why he fell in love with the place.

And lastly, the scenery is amazing. I’m not joking. Just driving up Provo Canyon is a treat and even though it may be slightly out-of-the-way, it’s one of the most scenic drives we’ve taken.

Delicate Arch

I think I need to come to terms with the fact that the ol’ blog is turning into a picture book. I can’t seem to help it. Seriously…this post is going to have a butt-load of pictures and I’ve already edited it down from the 150 I wanted to post. What can I say…Moab is a photogenic place. If you go there (and I hope you do) you’ll see exactly what I mean.

The only thing that could draw us away from Mancos, Colorado with it’s baby horses and majestic views (right from our RV) was our desire to see Arches National Park. Everyone’s heard of that place and everyone has seen pictures of Delicate Arch…it’s magical. But what we hadn’t realized was that there are two other parks nearby that should not be missed…I’m not even joking.

Our site at Portal RV “Campground”.

We parked the Mutiny at Portal RV Park & Resort because of it’s central location (we not only wanted to see the area parks but we also wanted to go into the town of Moab)…and it offered full hookups. Remember, I am so far behind on this blog that this was PRE-solar…and it was already hot…meaning we needed electrical hookups for the AC to work.

Apparently, the pond’d be good for us…

Private campgrounds in Moab are not cheap and Portal was no exception. It offers a “campground” area, which is similar to a large but well maintained parking lot and ran $36 per night for 30amp and $42 for 50amp service. It has a swimming pond, fishing pond, dog run and nice views. Conversely, the “resort” section is all privately owned and nicely landscaped (like bird-of-paradise landscaped). Spaces rent for $55 per night and includes access to the swimming pool and spa. We walked through the area and while it is nice with it’s koi pond and super-nice and shiny RVs (there are age restrictions on RVs and Fifth-wheels enforced in this part of the park) we didn’t feel that it was worth the extra $19 per night for access to a pool (full of kids).

But in all reality, we weren’t there for the campground or the pool,we were there for the trifecta of state and national parks that would present their gravity defying red rock formations, colorful canyons and miles of trails. And, as luck would have it, there was even a little bit of Eccentric American and dinosaur tracks thrown in for good measure.

Moab has it all.

1) Arches National Park: By now you know that we love our National Parks. Love ’em. Our travels may have been inspired, to some extent, by Ken Burns’ and Dayton Duncan’s series National Parks: America’s Best Idea. It’s fantastic. And it made us long to see these grand places with our own eyes, while we still could.

I present to you…Arches:

2) Canyonlands National Park: Many people may not realize that almost all of the commercial and motion picture depictions of the Grand Canyon are filmed here in Canyonlands or at it’s neighbor, Dead Horse Point State Park. Apparently, it’s more colorful, less crowded and there’s much less red tape (not to mention cheaper) to film in Utah. Regardless of the reason this National Park is amazing. And if you have a 4×4 vehicle (and you’re brave) you can actually drive from Dead Horse to Canyonlands all on back roads (we did).

Drummmmmm rolllll…Canyonlands:

3) Dead Horse Point State Park: You may be thinking why would I go to a lousy state park when there are two major National Parks here to visit…pshaw, state parks are for rednecks…Tsk, tsk, don’t be so judgmental and get yer butt over to this state park. I guarantee it’s more stunning than your last cutesy selfie holding your new Birkin Bag (it’s probably a knock-off anyway).

Ladies and Gentlemen…Dead Horse:

We found the spot Thelma and Louise drove off into the “Grand Canyon”…which was really filmed at Dead Horse Point State Park.

Not my photo…for comparision.

Let’s keep goin’! (quote from Thelma and Louise)

4) Faux Falls at Ken’s Lake: We were here in early June and it was already 97 degrees during the day. It’s also a desert area…and very exposed (aka not a lot of trees…or shade). And, as most dog owners know, you can’t bring your pooch to hike with you at the National Parks. But, you can bring them to Faux Falls and Ken’s Lake where you can hike, picnic and splash around in the water to your heart’s content (and that includes Fido).

For your consideration…Faux Falls:

5) Hole N’ the Rock: The name says it all…this is literally a hole in a rock. In the 1940’s a man named Albert Christensen excavated 50,000 cubic feet of rock to make a 5,000 square foot home inside this mammoth red rock formation, And now, keeping with American tradition, it’s become a famous roadside attraction. For just $6 per person you can take a tour of the home and sit and wonder two very important things…how? And why? Oh, you can’t take photos of the interior so you’ll just have to fork over your own $6 to see it for yourself.

Come one, come all…Hole N’ the Rock:

6) Dinosaur Tracks and Bones: There are several places to find both dinosaur footprints and exposed  fossilized bones. I wouldn’t exactly call us dinosaur geeks (is that a thing?) but we just couldn’t help ourselves...looking for these paleontological (< look at that big word) pieces of natural history was like going on a treasure hunt…and the Mutiny Crew loves treasure, Arrr! The best thing is that these are all self-guided, outdoor adventures. And although there are no ropes or chains keeping you from touching these relics, you *should* be mindful and walk lightly so they can be preserved for generations to come. 

Lots of dinosaur tracks!

Dinosaur bones!!

Honorable mention:

Canyonlands By Day and Night: This local tour company offers jet boat rides, white water rafting, stand up paddle board adventures, horseback riding, 4×4 excursions, zip lining, ropes courses and helicopter tours. We opted to do a sunset jet boat tour along the Colorado River which lasted about 1 1/2 hours. It was followed by a full dutch oven dinner with vegetarian friendly foods included in the $79 per person price tag. It was definitely a splurge for us. 

One thing to remember when you visit Moab, or anywhere in Utah for that matter, is that they have some strange liquor laws…at least strange to us. Having live in California prior to hitting the road we had been used to going to any grocery store (like Safeway or Albertsons) and being able to buy beer, wine, tequila, vodka, champagne, etc. right along with our aspirin, adult diapers, prunes…oh, I mean, right along with our regular groceries. We could also pretty much go to any restaurant (within reason) and just have drinks at the bar (without having a meal, shhhh).

Not so in Utah. *Some* restaurants may have separate bars where you *might* be able to get a measured drink, a beer or a glass of wine. I’m not quite sure what makes it okay for one place to serve alcohol only and another to say that you can only have a drink if you order dinner. But I do know that the Sunset Grill, which is an ideal place to sit and watch the sunset, does not have a drinks only option but Zax pizza joint and watering hole does. We went to Zax, naturally.

We crammed a lot into our short 5 days in Moab but there is so much more to see and do. Now that we have solar, we’re excited to check the area out again (perferably a little earlier in the season before it gets too hot) and spend at least 2 weeks hiking, biking and taking it all in.

If you’ve been we’d be thrilled to hear your suggestions on what to do the next time we roll through…